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Monday, January 30, 2006
Words we use (and eat)
[Note: Vegans may want to take the day off from treppenwitz]
Once upon a time before supermarkets and neatly cellophaned meat in Styrofoam trays, we humans had a close relationship with someone called a 'butcher'. Through this important relationship we acquired an incredible vocabulary and depth of knowledge regarding the butcher's trade and wares.
Looking back on my typical American Jewish upbringing, it never occurred to me to ask any of the grown-ups what exactly 'tenderloin', 'skirt steak', 'flanken' or 'brisket' were. Likewise, I knew terms like 'roaster', 'fryer', 'pullet', and 'capon' described various sorts of chicken... but if you put a gun to my head I couldn't possibly be more specific than that.
Since my few outings to the butcher (Benny Levine's on State Street in Bridgeport CT), were usually spent 'skating' through ankle-deep sawdust (didn't all butchers have sawdust on the floor?) and staring longingly at the candy display near the big, old-fashioned cash register, I was never in a position to question where these exotic names had come from or how to identify them. I simply assumed you asked the butcher and he gave you what you wanted.
When we moved to Israel I was delighted to note that even in supermarkets consumers typically had a face-to-face relationship with a knowledgeable butcher and frequently held extended discussions about cuts of beef and make specific requests regarding the quantity and type of chicken.
The only problem is that if in the states I only had the vaguest idea of what to call the mind-numbing array of meats and poultry... here in Israel I've been reduced to pointing like a Neanderthal at likely selections in the meat display and hoping for the best.
I bring this up because my ignorance of local nomenclature has me a little gun shy about ordering meat products here.
A perfect case in point would be the time I went to a popular shwarma joint in central Jerusalem and saw that they had 3 different rotisseries of roasting meat (shwarma). One was lamb, one was turkey and the third seemed to be a combination of the two. The guy ahead of me in line ordered 'Me'urav' (mixed), so I naturally assumed that he had requested some shwarma from the third 'mixed' rotisserie. It sounded like a good idea so when it came my turn I ordered the same.
When I bit into my pita stuffed with 'me'urav' I was nonplussed because it didn't taste like either lamb or turkey. In fact it didn't taste like shwarma! However, not wanting to look like an idiot I finished my portion and made a mental note to ask someone what I'd eaten.
As all you laughing Israelis already know, I found out soon enough that 'me'urav' is a Jerusalem mixed grill delicacy consisting of all the tripe and organs from inside the chicken that any civilized person would discard while cleaning the bird.
[~shudder~]
This culinary mishap caused by not knowing what the hell I was ordering had me deeply worried because one of the things I've fallen in love with here is something called 'Pargiyot'. For the longest time I didn't want to ask anyone what it was because I was secretly afraid that these tender morsels of grilled poultry would turn out to be the ass, feet and brains of the chicken!
I eventually went to a reliable friend and asked him what 'pargiyot' was. He explained that some restaurants mistranslated 'pargiyot' as 'Cornish Hen', but that this fallacy was based on bad information someone had given them that Cornish Hens were simply tiny chickens. He explained (and you can correct me if I've been misinformed), that 'pargiyot' are, in fact, very young chickens... basically what used to be called 'spring chickens' in yesteryear.
So, this begs two questions:
1. Was I given good information about the definition of pargiyot?
2. If so, is there anything comparable in the US or Europe? I mean, other than an expression for someone who is young, is there an American equivalent of a 'spring chicken' any more?
Reminder: Less than 3 voting days left in the JIBs. If you haven't voted in the last 3 days, you can go to the main page here to vote in all the categories... or go directly to the two categories in which treppenwitz is a finalist here and here. You are allowed to vote every three days.
Posted by David Bogner on January 30, 2006 | Permalink
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I've seen "baby chicken" (translated into "shish" chicken on the menus) on the menus of some of the "Israeli" restaurants around here. There's a growing Israeli population here, so it's not like the food lacks any authenticity...
Posted by: tnspr569 | Jan 30, 2006 2:09:32 PM
It's, I think, "Stubenkuecken" in German and "Djudje" in Persian. ;)
Posted by: mademoiselle a. | Jan 30, 2006 2:21:04 PM
I would guess that "poussin" is the equivalent in English.
You can find a video of Jeremiah Tower grilling poussin on one of Julia Child's PBS specials here.
Posted by: efrex | Jan 30, 2006 2:29:56 PM
You are a brave man, David. I never try any food I do not recognize without an explanation first!
From what I recall being told in Eretz Yisrael, the term pargiyot is used to refer to young chickens, but in actuality pargiyot can be any chicken which is advertised as fresh (and is therefore "young").
The American equivalent is a pullet...
Posted by: mcaryeh | Jan 30, 2006 2:37:33 PM
Aha! At least one recipe agrees with me on the poussins/pargiyot connection. Dang, that recipe sounds nice; too bad you can't easily find kosher poussins in my nabe... guess I'll haveta try it with Cornish hens, which my family refers to as "Gornisht" hens ("Gornisht" = "nothing" in Yiddish) because of their lack of substance.
Posted by: efrex | Jan 30, 2006 2:38:40 PM
Sorry, yes, Efrex is right! A poussin is a pullet bred especially for eating....
Posted by: mcaryeh | Jan 30, 2006 2:40:39 PM
From what I've seen by googling around, pargiot seems to officially mean "young bird" but basically refer to boneless chicken chunks (primarily thighs from what I've seen.)
Check out the entry for pargiyot here:
http://www.ynet.co.il/articles/0,7340,L-2609439,00.html
In general, a great reference for finding out answers to questions like this is the Israel-Food list (yes, self promotion, but it's so in style these days).
You can access it here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/israel-food/
Ask any question about what an Israeli food is called in English, or how to find an American food here and you'll get great replies, very quick.
Posted by: Dave | Jan 30, 2006 3:10:34 PM
Yes, pargiot are young chickens - but you will see the same nomenclature used in the States now, young small chickens are labeled Cornish hens so it may be that Israelis were ahead of the curve. Pargit is very popular with Mizrachim. I recommend them stuffed with dried fruits.
Posted by: Lisoosh | Jan 30, 2006 3:10:51 PM
I see that testosterone not only prevents men from asking directions, but also prevents them from asking what the Hell they're eating! How hysterical!
I "Shuddered" when I read that you ate that 'mixed' stuff BEFORE you told me what it was... jeesh, Dave!
I'm not asking YOU what anything is before I eat it when I visit... I need to go ask a reliable source (like your wife!) first.
Oh, and Benny Levine's was on Madison Ave in Bpt! It's no longer there now. ;(
Posted by: val | Jan 30, 2006 3:17:04 PM
Beef and lamb are butchered here in hybrid French/German/Mideastern style - further complicated by Kashrut laws - that is nothing at all like the standard American "Chicago packing house" method of dividing a carcass.
Julia Child addressed the differences a little bit in her famous "Mastering the Art of French Cooking".
I basically broke down and printed out a few meat charts I found on the Internet, which I took to a butcher (don't do this during a busy time - try going someplace near your work in the afternoon, rather than during the Thursday night rush).
Together with some rather funny pantomiming by both the butcher and myself - each on our own bodies - I got a basic understanding of where the various cuts were coming from. Then I went back to Julia and compared her descriptions.
It's also useful to tell them how you intend to cook it - although depending on the butcher's scruples, you could get some mighty expensive stew meat that way...
Posted by: Ben-David | Jan 30, 2006 3:28:01 PM
I, too fall under the "point and hope" category when confronted with the butcher counters here. You know, where you point and the butcher points and you do this little "zeh? Lo. zeh?, lo." song across the length of the display. Tell me, my kids want to know if you you know how to ask for brisket or maybe a pot roast?
Looking good in the Polls!
Carol
Posted by: Carol | Jan 30, 2006 3:38:13 PM
BTW - here are some links about cuts of beef in Israel, courtesy of the Israel-Food list:
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/israel-food/photos/browse/feb1?m=l
http://my.ynet.co.il/pic/food/caw/caw.swf
Posted by: Dave | Jan 30, 2006 3:39:28 PM
There are quite a few of seeminly disgusting parts that are considered delicacies. Liver, Sweet bread, Ptcha, tongue...
There is a side dish my mom used to make called "pipiklech" That always used to find its way to the garbage via underground, err table...I still don't know what exactly that is, it even sounds disgusting...
Posted by: Shevy | Jan 30, 2006 4:33:32 PM
tnspr569... SO you're saying pargiyot are the veal of the poultry world?
mademoiselle a. ... Well that clears things up! Now if only I weren't a stupid American who barely speaks his own language, much less a host of others.
Efrex... ah yes, another clown throwing 'foreign' words at the xenophobic American. :-)
Mcaryeh... OK, 'pullet' is another term I had heard countless times but was always too embarrassed to ask about. Thanks
Dave... Thanks for the links. I'm always looking to erase a little ignorance.
Lisoosh... I've had Cornish Hens in the US and they were not particularly tender and even had a a slightly gamey flavor that I didn't like. Pargiyot (at least as I know them) are not Cornish hens. However I do line the idea of stuffing any fowl with dried fruit. Yummmmmm.
Val... What??? It isn't like I was flying blind here... I made a reasonable (but incorrect) assumption based on what I'd heard from the guy ahead of me. It's not like I ordered snake or something! Sheesh!
Ben-David... Forgive me if I would prefer not to have ANYONE around while the butcher tries to pantomime 'tenderloin'. :-)
Carol... It looks like you and I both scored some useful links from the comments so far. Let me know how you do the next time you go to the butcher.
Shevy... Look, I'm no prude about most meats. I make a mean chopped liver... I render my own schmaltz and serve the resulting gribeness to my family. There are just a few things to which I have an irrational aversion. hearts, pancreas, brains, intestines are high on this list.
Posted by: treppenwitz | Jan 30, 2006 4:55:18 PM
I guess that is typically male, to eat something without knowing what it is! When I can't identify what I am being served, I just don't eat it.
Posted by: Essie | Jan 30, 2006 5:10:48 PM
You don't know what you're missing if you don't eat gizzards or liver. *swoon* Both are fabulous - and mind, so are chicken feet! Nice, chewy, chicken feet, deçectable, absolutely. Treppele, Treppele, what are we to do with you??
Posted by: Lioness | Jan 30, 2006 5:55:34 PM
(Oh all right, read your replies. Heart IS vile, and so are lungs. Brain is a cherished Portie delicacy but has never caught my fancy. (Or cow feet. Bleh.) Pancreas - I once ate one bite of anglerfish pancreas (ichsa) bcs I mistook it for fish eggs (yum), never again. Intestines can be rather tasty, would you believe? But FEET and GIZZARDS are the absolute most brilliant best.
Posted by: Lioness | Jan 30, 2006 6:04:15 PM
I stopped eating pargiyot when i found out that they're baby chickens. (i don't eat lamb or veal either)
Posted by: Steg (dos iz nit der shteg) | Jan 30, 2006 6:28:22 PM
I stopped eating pargiyot when i found out that they're baby chickens. (i don't eat lamb or veal either)
Posted by: Steg (dos iz nit der shteg) | Jan 30, 2006 6:28:31 PM
I stopped eating pargiyot when i found out that they're baby chickens. (i don't eat lamb or veal either)
Posted by: Steg (dos iz nit der shteg) | Jan 30, 2006 6:28:35 PM
Though I enjoy languages, you are discussing a portion of it and specific languages I do not have knowledge about. However, you are making me hungry. I cook Cornish Game hens at least twice a month ususally, but haven't done so in a couple months for some odd reason. *drooling* Having been raised by and Iowa farm girl, I grew up knowing about meat and poultry butchering and with some decent idea of cuts of meat minus any "bad feelings" about a "poor animal". Kill it, eat it, smile... as good as your team scoring a winning score in the championship, nothing more. Oh, one of my favorite Mexican dishes from my Dad's side of the family is Menudo, a tripe and hominy soup. Tripe and other organ meats really aren't all that bad, think pate if you must!
Posted by: Doom | Jan 30, 2006 6:30:41 PM
:::mmmmm::: Meat.... :)
So what place has the best shwarma!? Massov? The red awning place on King George? Someplace closer to you?
Posted by: Ezzie | Jan 30, 2006 6:34:05 PM
Well, you warned off the vegetarians, but you didn't say that your post would MAKE someone want to be a vegetarian!
My brother warned me the first week in Israel not to eat anything red or green if I didn't know what it was (schug, for those in the know...)
I took his advice and projected it onto any food that I don't recognize.
Posted by: westbankmama | Jan 30, 2006 6:41:18 PM
The very best kreplach are made with minced baked lungs (as my mother used to prepare them-- I operated the hand mincer as a child), mixed with fried onions and various other bits and pieces. Why do you think kreplach were invented?
I very much doubt that you're being served real young chickens. It would hardly be economical, and I didn't notice any on sale in any of the butchery stalls I saw on Shuk Hacarmel and Machane Yehuda.
I've always freaked out at the thought of eating brains and chicken or calves' feet or other offal too.. But real kreplach... something worth travelling for.
Posted by: Judy | Jan 30, 2006 6:41:26 PM
- I know, I meant that Perdue (not Kosher) label young chicken as Cornish Hen. Real Cornish Hen are a game bird.
Talk of disgusting foods - my father-in-law for a special occaision served up "Bietzim". I was sitting there for a good few minutes thinking "thats funny - they don't look like eggs" when it suddenly dawned on me what he really meant............
Posted by: Lisoosh | Jan 30, 2006 6:41:41 PM
As a child I loved eating tongue. Once I saw where it came from I was less enamored with it.
But if you don't tell me what it is I still really enjoy it.
Posted by: Jack | Jan 30, 2006 6:51:54 PM
As a recovering vegetarian, I'm a very happy although not entirely guilt-free connoiseur of this particular delicacy.
- and now I know what I'm having for dinner!
Posted by: PP | Jan 30, 2006 7:19:15 PM
Mr. B- no way! at least, not from the "baby chicken" that I've had...tasted like (bad) shwarma-infused chicken, and was very oily. I couldn't even eat half of it! As far as I know, there is no "veal of the chicken world"- unless you like to think that free-range (organic...) chickens fall under that category...
Posted by: tnspr569 | Jan 30, 2006 7:34:21 PM
I think I had meurav almost every day when I was pregnant wiht my son. A good place close to my work had it -- and I loved it.
Posted by: timna | Jan 30, 2006 7:37:47 PM
Actually, the kind of tripe you are so disgusted with (LOL!) can be made into various delicacies... Then again you're talking to a person, who, before coming to the United States, knew only one type of chicken - a "blue bird" (blue from age and starvation), and who still enjoys sucking the meat off chicken toes, scary as they might look in the soup!
Posted by: Irina | Jan 30, 2006 7:45:31 PM
Talking about hearts, you should just tried the fried chicken hearts my mother sometimes makes. You'd change your mind about them in no time! It's a shame they are so hard to find in necessary quantity in NYC. : - )
Posted by: Irina | Jan 30, 2006 7:50:20 PM
Oh schug (s-hug? S-chug?How on earth can THAT be transliterated? Anyway, it's pronounced like sjug, with a Spanish "J") Anyway, I miss it! That and S-chus! Best part of the chook is the cartilage (+ skin and bones), I'll happily swap all my chicken breasts for miser wings.
Wings. Yum...
Posted by: Lioness | Jan 30, 2006 8:00:23 PM
2. If so, is there anything comparable in the US or Europe?
As far as I know we aren't George's colony yet (aren't we lucky), but you asked for Europe. And people happen to speak German where I live. The Persian was a bonus in case of some Persian neighbours around Efrat, so you could impress them with saying things like "I love me some djudje kabab" or so. Yeah, being a giver is good.
=)
Posted by: mademoiselle a. | Jan 30, 2006 8:35:40 PM
tnspr569 and Trep: Since the taste of veal comes primarily from the calves' having been milk-fed, I would suspect that the closest you can get to "veal of the chicken world" would be milk-fed chickens. I'm not aware of any kosher varieties, unfortunately, though...
Oh, and anyone who has ever had compunction about eating chickens because they think that they're cute little birds has never had to deal with them. Have a vegetarian try to pet the average hen, and I guarantee he or she will be reaching for the axe in no time...
Posted by: efrex | Jan 30, 2006 8:56:23 PM
Snake woulda been better than 'tripe and the insides' from any animal... jeesh, back! ;)
Posted by: val | Jan 30, 2006 9:55:06 PM
EWWWWWW. You ate chicken guts. YOUUUUU ate chicken guts. Nanny nanny boo boo.
This comment illustrates that I'm eminently qualified to handle the whole Israeli - Palestinian crisis. No problem. Just let me know when you want me to fly over.
Posted by: Alice | Jan 30, 2006 11:35:14 PM
Of course my favorite sushi is flying fish roe with raw quail egg on top. It's all relative.
Posted by: Alice | Jan 30, 2006 11:37:52 PM
I laughed when I read this. It brought back...in vivid colors...one of my first outings to purchase a chicken when I lived in Spain. (Yes, there are supermarkets there, but only one in the village I lived in, and even the supermarket had a butcher counter.)
After dutifully writing down *exactly* what I wanted in Spanish, and rehearsing it several times, I braved my first solo trip to the carniceria (butcher). I ordered my pollo, entera, limpiado, sin cabeza (whole chicken cleaned--without the head thanks).
I saw him clean it out and leave the head and insides on the counter so I felt comfortable I could handle whatever I actually unpacked when I got home. Alas, no one could have prepared me for all those feathers! OK...not a whole bird full of feathers, but enough so that I had quite a job ahead of me before I could even consider roasting it.
I was reduced to tears in my minuscule Spanish kitchen, lamenting to my then-boyfriend about how terribly wrong this all was and that chicken--frankly *any* meat is supposed to come on a styrofoam tray wrapped in plastic, already cleaned and ready for cooking.
This was just wrong on every level.
Posted by: beth | Jan 31, 2006 12:24:23 AM
Just last week I was in a restaurant with cousins from Israel and my cousin by marriage asked if they have pagiot and his American born wife translated it for me as "like Cornish hens." I wasn't familiar with the term so it's funny that you bring it up again now.
Posted by: rabbi neil fleischmann | Jan 31, 2006 1:13:14 AM
On one trip to Israel my Yerushalmi brother in law said he was taking us out for the best 'meurav' ever. We asked what 'meurav' is and he said, "it's good!".
I noticed that black olives were part of the mix and popped one in my mouth. Imagine my surprise to find I was munching a chicken heart. (Alan offered to dissect it for me and show me the parts...)
Posted by: Chedva | Jan 31, 2006 2:30:39 AM
efrex- as someone who keeps kosher, in general, the world of treif meat hasn't held much appeal to me, especially considering what's found at prime grill and other such restaurants nowadays...
and yeah, i hear you on the second part of your comment, too.
Posted by: tnspr569 | Jan 31, 2006 2:47:42 AM
efrex- as someone who keeps kosher, in general, the world of treif meat hasn't held much appeal to me, especially considering what's found at prime grill and other such restaurants nowadays...
and yeah, i hear you on the second part of your comment, too.
Posted by: tnspr569 | Jan 31, 2006 2:51:53 AM
I just got an e mail from my Israeli cousin and she says that 'pargiot' are young chickens but explains that 'young' means small. That they are generally served in 'Al Ha'esh' places (grill) cut up on a kabob or stuffed. At those same 'Al Ha'esh' there are also chicken breast kabobs on the menu and the waiter will give an Israeli shrug if you ask him the difference. That clears it up ;)
Posted by: Chedva | Jan 31, 2006 3:49:46 AM
Well, I am totally late on this, but having read this right before I'm off to bed, I'm hoping I won't have half-eaten chicken guts nightmares the whole night! Thanks, David!
Posted by: Regina Clare Jane | Jan 31, 2006 6:25:18 AM
I don't want to cause any controversy, but (until now) I was always pretty sure that pargiot referred to dark meat chicken, deboned. Just as you can ask for "schnitzel," being the white meat quarter off the bone, "pargiot" is the version for those who prefer the dark side. I don't think the age of the chicken is relevant...
Posted by: Toby | Jan 31, 2006 10:18:24 AM
my mom is from bridgeport (i grew up in New London) and i remember going to benny levines for the big pre-pessach order . strange we used to go overboard for pesach but were not kosher the rest of the year (until we changed over when i was in high school). the scene at benny levines on a sunday was never an enjoyable experience but i always got a bar of halva.
i learned later that we would come from new london to benny levine but the bridgeport people would buy their kosher meat in westchester and the westchester people would buy in the city.
kobi
Posted by: kobi | Jan 31, 2006 10:45:37 AM
Essie... The classic scenario would be to eat said unknown meat while driving and refusing to ask directions! :-)
Lioness... I'm not a hopeless case... just a sheltered product of my American upbringing. :-)
Steg... For what it's worth, a little reading revealed that 'young chickens' are bred to come to maturity at 8 - 10 weeks and are then slaughtered. We're not talking about killing fuzzy little chicks.
Doom... Don't you feel like a giant when you hold that little drumstick in your hand? :-)
Ezzie... I'm partial to Sima's on Agrippas.
Westbankmama... Probably a good idea all around. Sorry I wasn't more specific with my warning.
Judy... Uh, thanks for taking kreplach off any future menu for me. :-)
Lisoosh... LOL! I wish I could have seen the understanding creeping across your face. :-)
Jack... The problem with eating tongue is you never know when to stop chewing. :-)
PP... Happy to help.
tnspr569... At least I had the good sense to wait until after I'd finished to start asking questions.
Timna... I'm assuming this was on some kind of a dare or wager, right?
Irina... I'd never heard that expression but you explained it perfectly. As to hearts... I once picked up what I thought was chicken liver to make chopped liver and when I opened the bag it was full of little chicken hearts. I was not a happy camper. No, no problem finding hearts here.
Lioness... I made a big batch of hickory-smoked chicken wings last night. Next time you come to Israel you'll have to visit for a plate.
mademoiselle a. ... Just because I ask the question doesn't mean I'll understand the answer. Which part of 'shallow American' didn't you understand? :-)
Efrex... Good point.
Val... But I heard that snake tastes just like chicken! :-)
Alice... Forget the actual food for a moment... many Arab cultures actually cook and heat with dried animal sh*t. Yummy! Come on over! :-)
Beth... Kosher chickens tend to have more feathers left on the carcass than their non-kosher variety because they are rinsed in cold water rather than warm (warm water releases the feathers). So just about any fowl you buy here in Israel is bound to be a little 'scruffier' than what you'd find in the US. Funny story, though.
Rabbi Neil Fleischmann... I find that once I hear a word or concept once it almost guarantees that I will hear it over and over for the next two or three weeks. That's just fate.
Chedva... Aren't doctors a lot of fun in restaurants? :-) Thanks for the update on the definition.
Regina Clare Jane... I hope you slept well.
Toby... The debate continues. :-)
Kobi... It just goes to show you that the grass is always greener. There was actually another kosher butcher almost right next door to Benny Levine which was considered much more reliable, but it lacked the atmosphere and we weren't that religious anyway. :-)
Posted by: treppenwitz | Jan 31, 2006 1:40:09 PM
Toby - the dark meat is referred to as "shok off" or "shokim" translated as thigh meat.
Posted by: Lisoosh | Jan 31, 2006 5:29:48 PM
Val, that was a really funny comment about Men...how true, huh?
I was always confused about cornish hens because I thought they were a game bird but I was told they are just a young chicken. But then again, I was buying the Perdue ones.
I also grew up on pupiks (sp?). It was such a special treat to be able to fish it out from our chicken soup. However, today, now that I know what it is (or what it's not) no way is it coming close to my cooking. I feel bad that my children will never know the joys of it - NOT!
Posted by: jaime | Jan 31, 2006 6:20:16 PM
I know this comment is way late, but I know you monitor incoming things so should see this...
"Since my few outings to the butcher (Benny Levine's on State Street in Bridgeport CT)"
Oh man, I miss Benny! Did he give you free mini hot dogs or sausages (I never asked what it was, I just ate it) to munch on when you were there? Even now, when I think of hamburgers, I can still hear his hamburger press chomping them out in the background. Ba-dump BA-DAP, ba-dump BA-DAP. I also remember how he'd write all the orders/prices down on a ripped piece of butcher paper.
When ever my folks would take my brother and I there (maybe 2-3 times a year?), we would also take orders from the neighbors and people in our synagogue. We'd have boxes of hamburgers in the freezer. Then Price Club (now Costco), BJs, etc. moved into the neighborhood, with their bulk frozen meats, and we stopped going.
Posted by: Nighthawk700 | Mar 15, 2007 7:38:24 PM
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